Lucknow Non Vegetarian Food Tour – Kulcha Nahari + Kebab + Biryani + Paan | Part – 2/2


-We will begin our Lucknow food journey in the local Lucknowi style i.e. with Sharma Ji’s tea. -The samosas that are made in Lucknow are of two to three types. -In case of the potato samosas, the potatoes are boiled and then cut with the peels on.
-Okay. His samosas are different because they peel the potatoes, mash them and then fry them nicely. In other samosas, ready made spices are added but in the samosas that are made here at Sharma’s, they put their own spice mix prepared from whole spices. -They have their own spice mix. -The masala is prepared from raw whole spices. The potato is nicely cooked. Isn’t it? You won’t see any potato pieces separately. At other places you would see the potato are used in pieces…
-Potato cubes… Yes and here they have the peels on them. So the samosas here… So the samosas that i have been seeing for the past fourty years. -During the royal times, culinary parties and elaborate kitchens were significant passion. People looked for excuses to host such parties. So when the Mughlai cuisine arrived in Awadh, it had three basic fundamentals. First was it should be delicious. Second thing was that it should be aromatic. And the third fundamental aspect was that it should be rich. And it should provide vitality and energy but should not upset the tummy. So when the is Mughlai cuisine came to Awadh… So the Nawabin E Awadh, Shahan E Awadh Beghmate Awadh and the royal cooks… the cooks and the gourmet cooks…they all made an effort and decided that there should be things or options beyond this. So they made pairs as to what should be eaten with what, so that the experience doubles and the taste is also optimized. Like the Nahari was already there in Delhi, Lucknow invented the Kulcha The kulchas in Lucknow are different from its counterparts in other places. So there came to exist a combination of Naharai and kulcha.. -We have come to Makbari gate and here we will taste Rahim’s famous Nahari. -Is this layers.
-Yes.
-There are two layers. -And a leavening agent is added to it.
-Yes otherwise it won’t rise. -It is also called the Khameer Naan. -Greetings. -How are you doing? -I saw the process of making these Kulchas. -Two dough balls are combined together and then rolled out and baked in the tandoor.
-Yes. -So its quite crispy and flaky. You can see that there are two layers. -And it is eaten with the Nahari. -Everyone has their own preferences. -For example there is Delhi’s Nahari. We don’t say its bad and Delhi people love it too much. -But in the in the dishes of Lucknow, the amount of fat, oil and masala is comparatively less. -What is the characteristics of an authentic Lucknow biryani. -The Yakhni or the gravy that is prepared in properly cooked. -And while it is prepared, cardamom, mace, milk etc. are added to it. -Then the rice that is cooked separately is added to it. -the rice is three fourth done. Its added to the Yakhni and then the whole thing is set for the Dum. -Yes.
-Dum Biryan. -When you talk about Lucknow’s cuisine, then the one dish that immediately comes to your mind is the Tundey Kababi. -We have come to the Akbari Gate. Right behind us we haave this famous shop Tunday kebabi. -Here we get the famous Galawati kebab, that we will try with the Sheermal. Come with us. -Who ever comes must be asking whether the Aminabad branch and the Akbri gate branch are the same establishment. -All are the same. This is the old one… After this came the Aminabad one and then the Saharagunj one. -Then came all the branches that are there. -But it began from this place.
-Yes. -So Haji Murad Ali sir used to sit here.
-Yes. -He started making the Kebabs from this place itself.
-Yes. -The term Galawat in Gaawati Kebab means ‘melt in mouth’. -These kebabs are so soft that as you put them in the moth, they just melt away. -Traditionally it is eaten with the Sheermal. But you can have it with the ‘Ulte tawa ka paratha’ too. -Very tasty. The Galawati Kebabs are shallow fried kebas. -It isn’t cooked in much oil. They are prepared on a slow flame with very little oil. -Here the making process is traditional. -It is slow cooked on the charcoal fire. -Little by little oil is added to the kebabs so that they get cooked properly from both sides. -The Kebabs were super delicious. -Let me now take you to the Roti wali Gali. -During the rule of Nasir-ud-Din Haider Badshah, there was this bread maker named Mamdu. He invented the Sheermal. In the word Sheermal, ‘Sheer’ refers to milk and ‘mal’ refers to the stuff that is being made. So all purpose flour is kneaded with milk and pure desi ghee i.e. clarified butter. The rolled out dough balls are put in the Tandoor oven. And it is sprinkled with Saffron soaked milk that lends it a yellowish orange colour. These Sheermal are soft and with the Kebabs they make a great combination. -So in this whole lane there are Roti shops only. Its known as the Gali roti wali.
-Yes. -Its is called the ‘Chawal galli’ or rice lane but there are Roti shops all over. -This is the Naan Roti that has nigella seeds and sesame seeds on it. And this is the Coriander Roti. Both are made from the same dough base. The main difference is in the shape. This is the Kashmiri Tea. To this they have added the Fang and the Balai. It think it tastes just like milk. Its milk, Fang and Balai. A nice sweet dish. This is a unique delicacy of Lucknow. It is called the Kashmiri tea. It is a pink coloured tea. On the they have added the Malai and Fang which is kind of puff pastry. Everything is combined and served like this. Now let’s taste Azhar Bhai’s Paan, the pride of Lucknow. -Look at their interesting menu. There is Wajd Ali Shah Gilori Paan, Hajme(digestive) ka Paan Khatta Meetha(sweet and sour)Paan. Munh Ke Chalo Ka Paan(Paan for healing mouth ulcer) Amle ka Paan(Indian Gooseberry Paan) Seene mein Jathan ka Paan(Paan for chest congestion) Sahi Gilori Kamar ke Dard Ka Paan(Paan for waist pain) So it seems like a medicine shop and not a paan shop. -See Paan is a traditional thing. It started with Tamul or betel leaf. In Mahabharat too Paan has been mentioned. During that time the Warriors would take the Paan in their hands and made lofty promises and would embark on their endeavours. But in Awadh the passion surrounding the Paan is a Fine Art. So eating a Paan is merely not just an exercise, it is a passion that is pursued and nurtured. -You have to greet after eating Paan. -Very nice. It is the wonder of the herbs. -How did you get the idea of having so man varieties of Paan -The idea came from the fact that during the rule of the Nawabs, eating Paan was quite prevalent… -Now rub it on your hands. -Your hands will smell of the Biryani. There is Biryani Paan over there. -Hmm! Now only we had Biryani at Rahim Bhai’s shop. -See the aroma of Biryani will reach up till home. Just now we had Nahari at Rahim’s. -If anybody feels like having biryani then he should use some of this Itar(perfume) and eat rice. It will satisfy his cravings. -Your spouse will find out that you have had Biryani. -Very nice. -We are at Chowpatiya Chouraha -Here we will taste Lala ki Biryani and Shammi Kebab. -This piece of meat is with the bone marrow.
-Yes. -We have plain white rice, saffron rice, cardamom, cloves and other whole spices. -Wow! The meat is so tender. It is so tender that it itself is coming off the bone. -The rice is very flavourful. And the meat is very well cooked, very soft. -What an amazing Biryani this is. It has the right greasiness. -The Biryani that you are having is the actual Biryani. -He has been making Biryani for the past 34 years. -What is this chutney made of? -Did you taste the chutney? -Yes. What is it made of?
-Did you like it?
-Yes it is very tasty. -What things have you used? -Coriander, mint and some sour ingredient. Wow. -I haven’t eaten a better Shammi Kebab than this. -People know this shop for their Biryani, but their Shammi Kebab too is very delicious. -Here there have been a lot of varieties of Kebabs. -The characteristics of a good Sheekh Kebab is that it should be grilled perfectly and it should melt in the mouth. -The Galawati Kebab that’s prepared on the Mahi Tawa or iron/copper griddle with raised sides, can be of many types. -It can be in the form of the Tikiya(flat patty) or anything else. -In the Shammi Kebab, the minced meat is mixed with channa dal and other spices. -And then tiny round portions of this mixture are taken and stuffed with a another mixture of ginger, onions, green chilies and coriander. -And next they are shallow fried in a Kadhai in such a way that they are crisp from outside and soft inside. -It should be fried properly so that it gets cooked till inside. -And one should see that the Kebabs shouldn’t get burnt. It should be cooked over very low flame. The heat should come from coal or tamarind wood fire. And the Kadhai or the wok like frying vessel should have a thick base. -We have come to Naushijaan and here we will taste the Kakori kebab, Pasanda Kebab and Ghutwa Kebab. -So on the Kakori Kebab, if you see properly, you will notice a thin film on it. And when you will eat it…it has a binding of the fat. At other places the Kebab will taste chewy or spongy. But it is one such Sheekh Kebab that is as delicate as any other Kebab in Lucknow. Like the Galawati Kebab this Sheekh Kebab too is very soft. -As you were telling that it melts in the mouth and you don’t need to use the teeth much. -No need at all(laughs). -See this is the Ghutwa Kebab. -Okay. It is totally mince meat paste. -Yes its a paste of ground meat. -And it is continuously cooked like the Halim(meat, lentil and wheat based delicacy). -Yes this Kebab is prepared in the same pattern as the Halim. -Is it also called the Majlisi Kebab?
-Majlisi kebab or the Ghutwa kebab. -To eat this with there is the Khameeri Roti found here in Lucknow. Or else there is Sheermal. -This Kebab is called the Ghutwa Kebab. -Just like the Halim, this Kebab is stirred and cooked continuously for a long time. -It is a thick paste of the mince meat. -It has a nice flavour of mint. I am trying it for the first time. Its very delicious. -Actually in Lucknow two types of Pasande Kebab were prepared. One was the Mehtabi Pasanda and the other was the Degh ka Pasanda. -This was the third kind of Pasanda that was not made at homes. It was mostly prepared by the gourmet chefs or at hotels. It is known as the Sheekh Pasanda. -If you notice properly, you will see that it is similar to the Bihari Kebabs. -And it is seen that in Lucknow, after the Boti kebab, this is one such kebab that can be chewed and relished. -The pieces are visible in this.
-Yes. -The term Pasanda refers to the process of cutting the boneless meat pieces into lengthy fillet like thing. -That is the Pasanda which I have eaten. There they shallow fry the fillet like pieces of meat. -I am having this type of Pasanda for the first time. -We call these as Shammi Kebab. -When they hear Shammi kebab, people think that it is to be eaten in the evening. -But in Arabic, Sham means Syria. Hence came the name Shammi Kebab. Because most of the dishes in Syria is made with Channe ki dal. Like the Humus or Falafal. These things are made of channe ki dal and so is the Shammi Kebab. -Its made by mixing channe ki dal and the meat mixture is fried in the shape of flat patties. -Right. And that is why it is known as Shammi Kebab. -In this Kebab you can taste some meat pieces as well. -Yes because the meat pieces are pierced in zig zag manner on to the skewer. -It has been marinated and pierced on the skewers and it is grilled over tamarind wood fire. -You use the Tamarind wood fire. -It gives a consistent heat. -The best thing about this wood is that they don’t release much sparks. -These residue from the sparks or embers settles on the Kebabs and affects the taste. -This fire is much more stable with no such ash residue and as a result the meat get cooked properly. -If you use the Tamarind fire wood, the meat receives a constant heat. And it gets slow cooked. -And it has a distinct taste.
-Yes. -In Lucknow everything has been taken care of. -Here we have paid attention to the fire that is used and to the utensils as well. -At other places, most of the utensils are flat bottomed whereas in Lucknow we use the round bottom utensils like the Degh. So when it is put over the fire, the flame is in contact with the vessel like this. And when such type of contact happens, then the food gets cooked evenly. -That is the special thing. For these reasons only the Food in Lucknow is good for health a you can figure out from mine. -And even the taste is amazing. -Eating in Lucknow is a passion. -True -Now we have come to Kesarbaag. -Let’s take you to a restaurant that has been here since 1911. here we will try their famous Shammi kebab and Pasanda Roll. -How are you?
-I am good Boss. -Tell me how can I help you? -Give us Shammi Kebab and Kakori kebab. -This kakori kebab has been grilled on the girdle.
-Yes. -First it is prepared on the skewers, then it is shallow fried on the griddle. -On the copper griddle with raised sides. -This is the Shammi Kebab that has been prepared long with Channa Dal. -It has onions. -Yes it has onions.

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